Cultural Contexts of 1984

• Major cultural events of 1984

1. Aids Virus identified by French Immunologist- for more on this issue, see Social Contexts


2. AT&T Broken Up- When the U.S. government decided to break up the country's largest communications firm citing it for monopoly violations, opportunities for new telecommunications companies like MCI and Sprint emerged. While AT&T's value decreased by over 70%, the industry saw unprecedented growth and opportunities to expand.


3. The first Apple Macintosh goes on sale- The Apple Computer debuted its new model, the Macintosh, which sold for $2,495. Though it was more expensive than the competitor IBM or the PCAs technology had developed, it was also much more powerful. The Mac defined the Y -generation as tech savvy individuals, and became very much a part of our culture. The computer was beginning to be seen more and more in the office, especially the PC. It began with the application of the spreadsheet which throughout the 80's helped business run smoothly and more accurately. The booming of the technology also brought about new jobs and new found wealth which led to large amounts conspicuous spending, especially in areas like California's Silicon Valley. The prosperity generated by the tech boom is accountable for many of the sought-after lavish lifestyles of 1984.


4. Sony and Philips introduce the first commercial CD Players- Music became available in the clearest, highest quality medium ever introduced in 1983. By '84, CD Players were available in Japan, Europe and the US, and while their prices astronomical for the time, thier popularity exploded. The futuristic look of CD's and thier players, as well as thier price, made them a status symbol sought after by people of all ages and incomes.


5. Sony makes the first 3 1/2" computer disk- data could now be easily stored and transported through the first floppy disks. As the use of computers increased in businesses and universities, "floppies" became a necessary, but expensive, tool for success.


6. The Space Shuttle Discovery has its maiden voyage- Launched on Aug. 30, the Discovery's mission was to position communication sattelites and shuttle astronauts from the International Space Station back to home. The Discovery was seen as a symbol of the end of Cold War hostilities between the US and Russia and is still carrying out successful missions today.


7. Genetic fingerprinting or DNA profiling was developed- Forensic scientists all over the world could now use definite means of identification at crime scenes and sometimes from old evidence also. This evidence was used to both varify and to disprove previous convictions.
   

• The Rise of Celebrity Culture- The expansion of cable channels and thier programming in the 80's brought America face-to-face with media celebrities and TV characters every day. The president of the country had been a famous movie star, the beautiful new princess of England was on the cover of every notable magazine as well as every tabloid. It seemed that, "chasing royals is like a drug, an addiction," for the whole western world. The designer looks of the Hollywood elite were knocked off as soon as they lit up the screen to be made available to every mall-walking American to be able to look like their celebrity icons.
  

1. Influential People-
   Madonna - “the ultimate fashion chameleon, recreating herself in a variety of roles that ranged from the streetwise punkette in Desperately Seeking Susan, Marilyn Monroe clone, soft porn queen and Gaultier-clad disco diva” (Mulvey, 174). A common look for Madonna was the rubber bracelets from elbow to wrist as well as the cross necklaces. Her unforgettable performance at the 1984 MTV music video awards, popping out of a wedding cake wearing a trashy bridal outfit and singing her new unreleased song, “Like a Virgin,” helped make her the queen of pop, and a role-model to teens all around the world. Madonna was known for pushing the envelope and being different, and that's what her looks inspired.

Princess Diana- Her close fitting evening gowns, which were often elaborate, and well polished pants suits made her always considered one of the best dressed. Masses followed her styles especially after trying to closely copy her wedding dress. Princess Diana was considered to be one of the most influential fashion icons of the time. All around the world people looked up to her and adored her fairy tale life, as well as her wardrobe. Her keen fashion sense and polished, well kept looks intrigued that common people as well as other media celebrities. She also kept close friendships with many high-end designers, earning her many couture garments and making her a muse of sorts for fashion innovators.

Donald and Ivana Trump- Financial mogul Donald Trump and his blonde-bombshell wife, Ivana lived the larger-than-life personas seen in the popular soap operas of the time. His business savvy and financial prowess were complimented by her flashy fashion sense, high style hairdos and attention-grabbing makeup. They were one of the quintescential power couples of 1984.

• Fashion Designers- Reaganomics, or the vast improvements in the economy under Reagan's presidency led to a much higher level of conspicuous consumption. Designer labels and logos were the must-haves of 1984. Here are some of the most influential and successful designers of the year:

Donna Karan – Given her own firm in 1984, Karan designed for business women. As someone who didn't have time to shop, she designed only what she as a business women would wear herself. Karan popularized many menswear looks, largely the "Power Suit." Her clothes were all planned to be mix-and-match for a cohesive collection that made for the wearer to only spend minimal effort and time getting a put-together, polished look.





Jean-Paul Gaultier- Gaultier was famous for turning underwear into outerwear. Inspired by punk roots and London's underground scene, his lines were edgy, androgenous and hypersexual at a time when mainstream women's sportswear was very serious and tailored. This outrageous new style was worn by celebrities including Madonna and was often knocked off for the teen-beat groupies that followed her look.

Perry Ellis- launched his self-named corporation in 1984 which covered Men's and Women's ready-to-wear sportswear, shoes, accesories, fur and perfume. He was known for his use of doubleknit polyesther fabrics and non-traditional, sporty fits for both of his collections. He was one of the first prominent Americans to die of AIDS related complications bringing attention to the issue within the fashion and art world.

• Yohji Yamamoto- Japanese innovator whose influence became prominent in the mid 80's. Yamamoto experimented with pleating, fullness and androgenous styles that were seen as revolutionary by American standards. He helped popularize layered looks and combined traditional Japanese standards of femininty with western sportswear. Yamamoto took drastic steps to change the clean and tailored lines in women's sportswear to comfortable, less revealing, modular shapes.
  Vivienne Westwood- 1984 marked the launch of Westwood's commercially popular looks. Her roots in punk and sexualized fashion had heavy influences in her collections, but it was this year that she implemented her traditional tailoring techniques. Westwood's combinations of space-age fabrics and styling with retro suit pieces for men and women brought funky, ecclectic British street fashion to the runway.
  

• Calvin Klein- Klien stirred up controversy between his graphic underwear ads and his use of very young, very thin models, but his designs themselves were very clean and minimalist. Klein popularized the idea of "designer" jeans in the 80's with skin-tight, high waist styles that were as expensive as they were covetted. His work with jersey fabrics created sleek, classically refined looks that influenced all areas of popular fashion.
  


• Hanae Mori- Mori was seen as one of the most influencial haute couture designers of 1984. She fused classic Japanese asthetics with Parisienne luxury for her private clientelle. Mori introduced elements of traditional Japanese theater costume which added to the momentum of Asian influences in world dress.
  

• Claude Montana- Montana had had strong influences in the exaggerated-shoulder, power-suit, primary-color movements of the early 80's, but in 1984, he made drastic changes in his collections. Montana softened both his shapes and colors for his new look and his subsequent collections perpetuated the stereotypical "80's look."
  



• 
  
  


• Gianfranco Ferre-Ferre's architectural background has always influenced his fashion designs. Scoffing at trendy styles and colors, Ferre's celebrity clientelle fell in love with his clean, classic designs that never scrimped on luxury or femininity. His classic, tailored, white shirts became a staple for luxurious casual wear for both men and women.

• Popular Artists- for visual references click here

Keith Haring- Haring was one of the most popular painters and sculptors of the mid 80’s. His bold, comic-style paintings addressed social issues with both humor and poignancy. Haring believed in the importance of artistic expression for children of every background and status and often brought kids in to help him work on his large-scale installations and murals. He used his pop art and popularity to educate the world on issues like AIDS, drug abuse, apartheid, and discrimination. Haring opened “Pop Shop,” his boutique featuring tees, hats and other clothing adorned with prints of his works. His work for social issues and the dynamic, colorful character of his art combined to make Keith Haring one of the most influential and recognizable artists of 1984.

Jean-Michel Basquiat- Another former street artist, Basquiat used bright, bold, primary colors in his often child-like illustrations of social issues. Basquiat’s paintings in primary and neon colors depict racial discrimination, elitism, and social injustices, all of which were very popular themes within the 80’s street art movement. The simplicity of the figures in his paintings made them widely relatable, but their serious content drew necessary attention to Basquiat’s sources of inspiration.

Gerhard Richter- Though his influence has spanned decades, Richter’s popularity in the 80’s made him a huge influence on the art and design scenes. The German-born artist has constantly explored new mediums from pencil and charcoal, to oils and acrylics to photography and digital photographic editing. Richter has been a constant innovator in his choice of content, medium, and inspiration spurring new perspectives for other artists and designers alike.

• Television and Movies
  Beginning in the eighties, many Americans began to see a detrimental impact on society coming from the popular obsession with the media. For some, the television was the one place where they could keep in touch with what is going on in the world, including trends and styles. We typically look for fashion sense in those individuals that we idolize including celebrities and movie stars since they have the easiest access to what is the newest and greatest in the fashion industry. Because they have become a type of role model, many want to emulate celebrities, and therefore dress just like them. The 80's was the time also referred to as the “heyday of celebrity- obsessed glossies,” many aspired to live the life of the rich and famous. Particularly television shows like Dallas and Dynasty led to a preoccupation of the high life, with the huge shoulder pads and decadent lifestyles that millions aspired to epitomize. Shows such as this created a desire for women to dress for success and power. Trends would change and evolve as soon as they could be knocked off in the malls, feeding the frenzy for new looks and new idols in American media.
  

Popular TV Programs

1. Dynasty- a soap opera of the time continued the desire for powersuits- very tailored, wide shouldered skirt or pant suits for women, often in bold colored fabrics or featuring colorful or metallic details. This trend lasted until the early 1990's.


2. Entertainment Tonight- kept all of America in tune with the latest celeberity gossip, relationships, movies and music debuts and scandals of the day.


3. Miami Vice- debuted in September of 1984, started a trend of men wearing more colorful suits and adding additional colorful pieces to warm up the usual black suit and tie. Ray-ban sunglasses and crew-neck tees with sportcoats were also popular looks on the show.


4. Cagney and Lacey- provided momentum for the women's movements of the 80's, the two female detectives fought crime by day while still fulfilling thier roles as wife and mother, and wild single gal by night.


5. Cheers- where "everybody knows your name," the show was iconic of the hometown atmosphere of a blue-collar, after-five hangout.


6. Fame- a drama about aspiring actors, dancers and comedians in thier High School's drama department. The show had an inspirational message for young people to work hard and reach far to accomplish thier dreams.


7. Knight Rider-after complete facial reconstructive surgery and the gift of a laser-powered, super intellegent, supercar named KITT, detective Michael Knight was ready to bring down crime using any kind of fantastic technology he could find.


8. The A-Team- featuring five "soldiers of fortune" who hired themselves out to the high-rollers of underground crime and high society spies. The A-team were the fugitive rebels who could right wrongs while staying ahead of the law.
   

Popular Movies

Flashdance- debuted in 1983, inspired the trend of wearing ripped sweatshirts that hung off the shoulder, as well as the fad of wearing leg-warmers carried on into the next year.

This is Spinal Tap- "mock"-umentary that poked fun of the glamour and decadence of the rock bands of 70's and early 80's. Although the movie critically teased the glam-rock and power band styles, the movie had influence on the punk counterculture and the and flambouyant gay and club cultures of 1984.

The Terminator- the neon, leather, futuristic styles of the mid 80's were epitomized in this movie. Set in a spaceage future, the movie took big hair, edgy biker looks and bright colors to the extreme.

• Music

Popular Musicians

· Phil Collins

· Billy Joel

· Tina Turner with " What's Love got to do with it "

· David Bowie

· Wham! with " Wake Me up Before You Go "

· UB40

· Stevie Wonder with " I Just Called to say I love You "

· Bruce Springsteen

· Kenny Rogers

· Duran Duran with " The Reflex "

· The Cars

References:

Brannon, Evelyn L. (2005). Fashion Forecasting. New York: Fairchild Publications, INC.

Mendes, V, & De-La Haye, A (1999). Twentieth Century Fashion. Thames & Hudson

Mulvey, K (1998). Decades of Beauty: The Changing Image of Women (1890-1990). New York: Check Mark Books.

Camardell, Michele L. (2006). Decades of American History; America in the 1980's. New York: Stonsong Press.

http://www.nasa.gov/centers/kennedy/shuttleoperations/orbiters/discovery-info.html