Monday, September 29, 2008

1984 Styles







  • In 1984 designer Katherine Hamnett came out with t-shirts with political slogans on them which were very popular among the youth culture because they were getting more involved in political issues.



  • The 80’s brought a health and fitness craze in America that inspired new work out clothes. Aerobics and dance-themed movies and shows made body hugging styles that were easy to move in popular and were made out of Lycra, elastic, latex and spandex, all new textiles created in the 60's.



  • Women wore ripped sweatshirts baring one shoulder.



  • Punk was still very prevalent in the 80’s as well. There was somewhat of a rebellion against fashion, young people didn’t want to be told what to wear, they wanted to develop they’re own style.



  • Brand names started to become really important and soon Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Donna Karan were household names.
    “Nothing comes between me and my Calvin's.”



  • Singers like Michael Jackson and Madonna influenced fashion during the 80’s too, popularizing matching red and black leather jackets and pants with one white glove, or bras as outerwear. Before athletic shoes were just worn as casual wear, but they became a high priced fashion item during the 80’s. Air Jordans basketball shoes made their debut in 1984.



  • Roller skates also became popular in the 1980’s, it might have something to do with the film Rollerboogie being released. The colors blue and yellow were very popular for roller skates in 1984.



  • Leggings, legwarmers, headbands became popular among teens. People wore they’re collars popped with the top few buttons undone, it looked uptight or stuffy if they wore their collars folded outside a business environment.



  • Shoulder pads became popular when people started “power dressing,” women dressing for equality in the work environment, wide tops and slim pants were the look.






I love 1984: Fashion. BBC. http://www.bbc.co.uk/home/d/ (9/29/08)




English, Bonnie A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th century: From the Catwalk to the Sidewalk. Berg Publishers 2007




Mulvagh, Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. Published by the Penguin Group 1988




Blackman, Cally 100 Years of Fashion Illustration. Laurence King Publishing 2007

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Colors and Trends of 1984

Trends:

Idea of Power Dressing: With women obtaining bigger roles in the workplace, the need to look professional arose. Tailored suits and jackets started appearing. One of the major trends in blouses and suit jackets were shoulder pads. To still show their femininity, women included belts and much fitted waistlines to offset the wideness of the shoulders. The look was often seen as masculine, so to soften the look women often incorporated a tie, a bow tie or even a floppy scarf.

Longer Proportions: The idea for fall in 1984 was “long and lean.” Jackets and cardigans were made to be longer in proportion to the actual waistline. Coats also became longer leading to the trench coat look that was so popular in this year. Hemlines varied from the “long and lean” look to shorter skirts. However, longer tops and blouses were paired with the shorter skirts to maintain this long proportion.

Pants: According to the 1984 May issue of Vogue, in style pants were ones that were fuller and rounder at the top. The height of the pants was higher to accentuate the natural waistline to contrast the widening of the shoulder in the silhouette. While pants were becoming a day-time staple, they also became a popular “out on the town” ensemble.

Shorter Hemlines in Fall Fashion Shows: In their 1984 fall fashion shows Jean-Paul Gaultier and Stephen Sprouse showed off a daring hemline – the mini. In Sprouse’s show the short skirts and dresses were six inches above the knee or more. The trends started by these designers were mainly for the younger crowd rather than their elders. Along with Gaultier and Sprouse, Georgio Armani also bared a lot of leg in his 1984 fall fashion show. The swingy, short skirts reflected the upward climbing of the once depressed economy. If mini skirts were going to be a success in the forecasting for 1985 and 1986, the economy must be good. An economist, Alison Lurie, said that if the economy is good, people feel freer and happier.

Japanese Influences: Major Japanese designers such as Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo influenced American designers a lot throughout 1984. Even today, the Japanese fashion industry impacts the international trade of fashion.

Handbags: The quilted Chanel handbag with a chain was the most popular bag in the 80’s. Any bag like this with the Chanel logo was desired by women everywhere. Another popular handbag trend was matching the purse to the shoes with an array of different colors.


Accessories: Long pearl necklaces and rosaries became the key accessories for young girls every where when Madonna started to wear them as jewelry in 1984. From then on, Madonna has had a key impact on many fashion trends and styles. For the rest of the population, jewelry was big also. Gold jewelry, including necklaces and earrings, were very popular; the bigger the better. In the evening, women usually paired luxurious-looking glove with their ensemble. If gloves were not worn, an armful of bracelets was put on.



Colors:

Black and Other Neutrals: Black was a popular color in the workplace because of the seriousness and powerful perception it gives off. With women becoming more prominent in the workplace, black and other neutrals were used a lot more often. Black has always been a staple in the wardrobe. Yet, in 1984, it seemed to come alive in all the designers’ shows. For nighttime, black was often paired with bright colors or metallic accents to make it pop.

Fall’s Palette of Neutrals: The May 1984 issue of Vogue forecasted the many different neutrals that were to be used in the fall designs or that year. The palette ranged from creamy beiges to darker browns. Ivory and different whites were also proposed to be big. Colors like grey and navy were going to be present but not as big as the previous colors.

Day-Glo/Neon Colors: Along with the new prominence in the workplace, women gained more confidence. Thus, when designers started to splash neon colors onto the runway, women were definitely ready for it. The neon trend was more popular in the younger generations. These Day-Glo colors, such as furious fuchsia and lightening yellow were adopted by Jean-Paul Gaultier and others.

Primary Colors: Colors such as red, blue, and yellow were extremely popular in the earlier 80’s. When 1984 rolled around, these colors were kind of mutated to become brighter and more like the neon colors discussed before. “Real red” was used a lot in evening wear. Red has the property of appearing nearer than it actually is; thus, it is the first color we see. Red is the color worn by women who want to get noticed and have bold confidence, which describes the new women of the 80’s.

Rich/Deep Colors: Colors such as deep bottle green, cranberry red, and wine were extremely popular as accents for fall 1984. These colors perfectly accented the palette of neutrals discussed before. These colors were also prominent in evening wear worn by women. These colors look luxurious and wealthy, which is what women desired.

Forecasts for Future Seasons:

  • Women’s wear to become more overtly feminine rather than the power suits.
  • “Long and lean” proportion also was seen to be heading out.
  • Walking shorts were predicted to be huge.
  • Full-length trousers to be cropped a little shorter.
  • Small, almost midriff, tops in sweater-like knits.
  • White was predicted to become an “it” color using brighter colors as accents.
  • Intricate, computer-like patterns on fabrics were inspired by the circuit board of all the new computers coming out.
  • Patent was forecasted to be huge.
References:
Cocks, Jay. “The New Bad Boys of Fashion.” Time. 29 October 1984.
Duffy, Martha. “It’s That Old Short Story Again.” Time. 22 October 1984.
http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,951376-2,00.html
Fukai, Akiko. Fashion in Colors. New York : Assouline, 2004.
Vogue. May 1984, November 1984, and December 1984 issues.

Economic Information for 1984

This chart is 2007 but it gives good information as to how much time consumers spend on shopping as opposed to other daily activities.

By using an inflation calculator on the Bureau of Labor Statistics website, I found that $1.00 in 1984 is equivalent to $2.11 in 2008. This means that in the last 24 years the price of items due to inflation has more than doubled.

Another website I found gives income levels for 1967-2007, dividing into highest, lowest, etc.

I made this chart with the help of a website. I put in that I wanted to know how much women and girls spend annually on apparel products. It gives information from 1984 to 2006. There is also a table on the website you should check out because the numbers are easier to read.

*The Y axis refers to dollars.


From the New York Times' website I learned that there was an economic boost in 1984 partly due to Ronald Reagan's tax cuts and fight against inflation. There was a high level of unemployment though, 7.5%. The consumer confidence level was in the 100's, a good turn around from 1982 when levels were in the 50's. This means that in 1984 the economic status of the country was good enough that consumers would spend more money on unnecessary items such as retail.

References:
http://www.bls.gov/tus/current/purchasing.htm
http://www.bls.gov/data/inflation_calculator.htm
http://www.census.gov/hhes/www/income/histinc/h01AR.html
http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/dbdown?Your+request+was+invalid+for+this+Data+Access+Service.+Please+attempt+other+data+requests.+Thank+you+for+using+LABSTAT.
http://query.nytimes.com/search/sitesearch?query=1984+economics&srchst=cse
http://www.econstats.com/rt_cconf.htm

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Strategic Plan

Global Lights’ plan of action is to always be aware of our surroundings, be alert with all five senses, and to pay attention at school and in the community in order to be ready to spot the “hidden current.” We will make “trend folders” including pictures taken by us and pictures from current and past magazines. Group members will not only be in tune with surrounding architecture, food, and media but also the latest technology. Technology is leading the world today and shaping the future ahead so we must be aware of the latest additions in the field. The group will put a high importance on the environment because we know that consumer values have changed recently and “going green” is very trendy.
We will always keep in mind issues and problems that can lie ahead. We will find ways to work around and through these obstacles and deal with the problem by “filling a gap” with something new and innovative. Global Lights will use various research methods to find our information, such as WGSN, AATCC Online, firstVIEW, etc. Our group understands that communication is critical in order to maintain this strategic plan which is why we have divided up the research needed in order to perform this project to the best of our ability. The members will research their focus areas for the years 1984 and 2010. The focus areas are:
  • For Trisha, art and major designers
  • For Kelsey, color and trends
  • For Aubry, politics and economics
  • For Ashley, styles and outliers
  • For Arielle, culture and influential people
The duties of each group member are clear and we all understand that in order to build trust as a team we must finish our respective research on time with no exceptions. Organization is also important to keep the momentum going. Research and media must be kept in a safe place, so that it will not become lost or out of order.